By GRACE KELLY/ecoRI News staff

Commercial fishermen and chefs areworking on a plan to make scup, a small fish found in abundant numbers in localwaters, more desirable to consumers. (Eating with the Ecosystem)
The story of scup in Rhode Island —the underutilized little fish that has seen a growing push from the eat-localfood movement — is hardly news.
For years, educators at Johnson & WalesUniversity have hosted scup dinners, organizations like Eating with theEcosystem have promoted the porgy, local chefs have highlighted it on menus,and immigrants from West Africa, Central America, and Southeast Asia havehauled coolers to Point Judith to buy the fish straight off the docks.
For years, educators at Johnson & WalesUniversity have hosted scup dinners, organizations like Eating with theEcosystem have promoted the porgy, local chefs have highlighted it on menus,and immigrants from West Africa, Central America, and Southeast Asia havehauled coolers to Point Judith to buy the fish straight off the docks.
But as awareness for this littlefish has grown, the truth is, preparing a whole fish is still intimidating tomost home cooks. In a consumer society where convenience is key, for better orfor worse, most of the country likes its fish in neat fillets.
“What was a big challenge I thinkfor the species was you have to buy it whole,” Johnson & Wales associateinstructor and assistant dean Thomas J. Delle Donne said.
“And buying fishwhole becomes problematic unless your culture and your cuisine is used tocooking whole fish, which a lot of cultures are, but there are also a lot ofhouseholds that looks for fish at Dave’s or Whole Foods or Stop & Shop thatis cleaned and filleted.”
“And buying fishwhole becomes problematic unless your culture and your cuisine is used tocooking whole fish, which a lot of cultures are, but there are also a lot ofhouseholds that looks for fish at Dave’s or Whole Foods or Stop & Shop thatis cleaned and filleted.”
To bring scup to the masses — and,in the process, create demand for fishermen to catch the abundant fish — theKingston-based Commercial Fisheries Research Foundation(CFRF) has partnered with Delle Donne and other chefs at Johnson & Walesand the Pier Fish Co. in New Bedford, Mass., among other organizations, to tryto create a marketable scup fillet.
“It kind of started with scup as anunderutilized species,” said Michael Long, a research biologist at CFRF whoheads the scup project. “They’re currently soldprimarily as fresh whole fish, so there’s not really any processing going on,there is some small-scale hand-filleting going on, but there’s not largemechanized filleting process.”
While many consumers may think thatfish arrives at the supermarket whole, many fish are actually processed inlarge-scale facilities with machines specifically designed to scale, clean, andfillet all kinds of seafood products.